Vietnam: A Slow Journey Through Hanoi, Ninh Binh, Hoi An and Hue
Vietnam surprised me, although perhaps not in the way you might expect.
Fede and I didn't arrive with huge expectations. We wanted to see the country, and simply experience somewhere neither of us had been before. We weren't expecting Vietnam to become the trip of our lives.
And, in the end, it didn't.
Vietnam isn't my favourite country among the places I've travelled to. I wouldn't tell you that I left already planning my return, or that I'd happily spend a month there working remotely.
But that doesn't mean I wouldn't recommend going. Quite the opposite.
Because Vietnam gives you an incredible amount to experience within one journey. The atmosphere changes constantly. So does the landscape.
Every stop felt like a different country. And I think that's what I liked most about Vietnam.
It fills your eyes.
With colour, food, architecture, landscapes, people, history, chaos, silence. You can have completely different experiences within the space of a couple of hours. So in the end, some places stayed with me much more than others and I would happily return to. Some I don't feel the need to see again.
And that's exactly what I want this guide to be.
Not another "the ultimate Vietnam itinerary", Just our route, the places that surprised us, the things I'd do differently, and the moments that stayed with me after we came home.
First: I Would Change the Route
If I could plan the trip again, there is one thing I would do differently.
I would fly into Hanoi and out of Ho Chi Minh City. We flew London - Hanoi and then, because of the flights we found and the way we had organised the trip, eventually had to return to Hanoi for our flight home. Looking back, that was the biggest mistake in our itinerary.
Vietnam is long. Very long.
And when you have roughly two weeks, I would much rather use the time to move gradually south than spend precious hours retracing your steps.
Our route worked, but my ideal version would be:
Hanoi → Lan Ha Bay → Ninh Binh → Hue → Hoi An → Ho Chi Minh City
You could even remove one destination rather than rushing through all of them. And that's another lesson from this trip: Vietnam rewards slowing down.
Which brings me to the place I would most strongly recommend.
Hanoi | Three Nights Are Enough
Hanoi is intense.
In the best possible way.
The first thing that hits you is the sound. Motorbikes everywhere, tiny streets filled with people, food being cooked on pavements, cafés hidden above shops, tangled cables and an almost overwhelming amount of visual information.
It's chaotic, but it's also fascinating.
We spent three nights here, and for me that was enough. You can see the main sights without feeling that you've only scratched the surface, and I would rather use the extra night somewhere quieter, particularly Ninh Binh.
Start at Hoan Kiem Lake
Start at Hoan Kiem Lake in the morning, before the city becomes completely frenetic. From here, walk towards Ngoc Son Temple, then lose yourself in the Old Quarter rather than following a strict route.
Hanoi is a city where wandering is part of the itinerary. Look upwards.
Some of the most interesting details are not at street level: narrow tube houses, balconies, old façades, signs and cafés tucked into upper floors.
And yes, eat. We had bun cha in the Old Quarter, which remains one of those meals I immediately associate with Hanoi.
And then drink coffee. Lots of it. Vietnamese coffee deserves its own category.
If, like me, you have a sweet tooth, egg coffee is ridiculously good. I know it might sound like an unusual combination, but to me it tasted like a liquid tiramisu, rich, sweet, creamy and definitely not something I could drink five times a day.
Try it at Café Giang, traditionally credited with the creation of egg coffee.
And don't just look for the famous cafés.
Some of my favourite Hanoi coffee experiences were in those slightly hidden places upstairs, reached through narrow entrances and staircases, where you suddenly find yourself looking down at the street from a tiny balcony.
The cultural side
Allow time for the Temple of Literature, the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum and One Pillar Pagoda, the Imperial Citadel of Thang Long and the Hoa Lo Prison Museum.
The French Quarter is also worth adding to your walk. It gives you another side of Hanoi, with wider streets, colonial architecture and a slightly different rhythm from the Old Quarter.
Then there is Train Street.
Now, I have to say something here.
I'm not a huge fan of super-touristy places simply because everyone else goes there. But if a place is loved by tourists, there is usually a reason for it. And if you're already in Hanoi, I don't see any reason not to experience something as peculiar as this.
Go. Find yourself a little table. Buy a beer. Wait for the train.
And enjoy the absurdity of sitting centimetres away from a railway line while a train passes through what looks like someone's living room.
It's touristy. Absolutely. It's also unique. And sometimes you don't need to overthink it.
Lan Ha Bay | The Best Part Wasn't the Cruise
From Hanoi we headed towards Lan Ha Bay and spent a night on the water.
I would still make Lan Ha Bay an overnight experience. There is something special about waking up surrounded by those enormous limestone formations, watching the landscape slowly emerge as the light changes. But I want to be honest about one thing, because the photographs you see online can create very high expectations: the water isn't always as pristine as you might imagine.
I was actually a little disappointed by this.
There are areas where the water is noticeably less clean, although the boats are careful about where they stop and it certainly wasn't something that prevented us from swimming. It's just that, in some parts, the reality doesn't quite match the perfectly turquoise images you might have seen.
For me, though, the best part of Lan Ha Bay wasn't the water at all. It was getting off the boat.
We spent part of the day cycling around Cat Ba Island, and this turned out to be one of the most memorable experiences of the entire trip. Our guide took us beyond the places we would have found by ourselves and into a small village, where suddenly the experience became less about sightseeing and much more about observing everyday life.
I remember one moment particularly clearly.
We passed a woman who looked around ninety. She was blind, and yet she was still working in the fields under the intense sun. I was struggling with the heat and feeling weak, probably wondering when I could sit down somewhere with a cold drink.
And there she was, carrying on working. It stopped me.
Not because I want to romanticise hardship, quite the opposite. It was a very uncomfortable reminder of how different our realities can be. I was experiencing Vietnam as a traveller, temporarily uncomfortable in the heat, while for her this was simply life.
That encounter stayed with me much more than any perfectly framed view from the boat. And this is exactly why I think the right guide can change an experience. Without him, we would have seen the bay. With him, we briefly saw a little of the life within it.
Do you need to go luxury?
Honestly? I wouldn't. It's one night.
The landscape is the real star, and while I enjoyed the overnight experience enormously, the water wasn't the cleanest I've ever seen. For that reason, I personally wouldn't spend a huge amount of money on an ultra-luxury boat for one night.
Choose something comfortable, well-reviewed and clean, and put the money elsewhere. A private cabin is still worth considering, especially as a couple.
Ninh Binh | The Place I'd Give More Time
If there is one place from our itinerary that I would tell you not to rush, it's Ninh Binh.
We stayed for three nights, and I could have happily stayed longer. This was probably the biggest surprise of the trip for me.
The landscape is extraordinary, but what stayed with me wasn't simply the famous limestone mountains. It was the pace.
There is something about cycling between rice fields, passing small temples and watching enormous karst formations rise around you that makes everything feel slower.
This is the place where I felt most at peace in Vietnam.
Stay for three nights
Use the first day simply to settle in. Cycle through the countryside. Stop wherever something catches your eye. Visit Thai Vi Temple. Don't over-plan it.
Trang An or Tam Coc?
This is where I would change my previous advice.
We originally wanted to do Trang An, as it is so often recommended, but timing meant we ended up doing Tam Coc instead.
And you know what? We enjoyed it.
The scenery is beautiful, the boat journey is relatively manageable in length, and looking back, I actually think it gave us exactly the right amount of time on the water without becoming an entire day dedicated to one activity.
So I wouldn't tell you that you must choose Trang An. If your itinerary allows it, research both.
Trang An is probably the one I'd choose if I were returning, but Tam Coc absolutely wasn't a disappointment.
Hang Mua
Go to Hang Mua towards sunset if the weather allows.
There are quite a few steps, around 500, but the view from the top gives you a completely different understanding of Ninh Binh.
You suddenly see the rice fields, waterways and limestone formations as one enormous landscape.
Bich Dong Pagoda
For something quieter, visit Bich Dong Pagoda.
It's smaller and more intimate than some of Vietnam's grander religious sites, and its position against the limestone landscape makes it particularly atmospheric.
And then... do nothing. This is my strongest Ninh Binh recommendation. Leave one afternoon completely empty.
Sit outside your hotel. Read. Cycle slowly. Have a drink. Work if you have to.
Ninh Binh is the place in this itinerary where doing less makes the trip better.
The Overnight Train | Spend a Little More for Privacy
We travelled overnight by train and, honestly, I was nervous.
My main concern was cleanliness.
We booked a private cabin for two, and I'm very glad we did.
We travelled with Violet Train and Lotus. It's slightly confusing when you're researching because these are different operators using different carriages on the same railway service. In our experience, Violet felt slightly better, nothing dramatic, but there were small differences in the details that influenced my overall impression.
If you're unsure whether to spend more:
Do it. Get the private cabin.
A cabin for two as a couple, or one for four if you're travelling as a family, makes the overnight journey considerably more comfortable.
Breakfast is provided, and there is even someone walking through in the morning calling out the wonderfully simple: "Coffee! Tea!"
So you don't need to board carrying half a supermarket with you.
We booked through 12Go.
The overnight train isn't just a way of getting from A to B. It's part of the trip.
And there is something strangely romantic about going to sleep somewhere completely different from where you wake up.
Hoi An | Beautiful, But Know What You're Going For
Hoi An is probably the place most people picture when they think of a romantic Vietnam itinerary.
Yellow walls. Lanterns.
Old merchant houses. The Thu Bon River. Tailors.
It is undeniably beautiful. But here's my advice:
Don't spend all your time in the postcard version of Hoi An. The Ancient Town can become busy, particularly around the most photographed streets.
Get up early. Walk before the crowds arrive. Then get on a bicycle and leave.
What I would do with three nights
Spend your first day exploring the Ancient Town, visiting the old merchant houses and Japanese Covered Bridge, and, if you're interested, getting measured by a tailor.
If you want something made, do it early enough to allow time for fittings.
In the evening, see the lanterns and walk along the river. The traditional boat ride is touristy, but again, sometimes you can simply enjoy an experience for what it is.
The following day, head towards Cam Thanh and the coconut forests, or visit Tra Que Vegetable Village.
And yes, you can go to the beach. But let's manage expectations. This isn't the Maldives.
It's perfectly pleasant for a few hours of sitting down, having a drink and giving your legs a break. Your Vietnam trip isn't really about the sea.
For me, the countryside around Hoi An was much more interesting. Rent a bicycle and cycle through the rice paddies.
And if you need to work while travelling, make a note of Chillax Eatery & Hangout.
Fede and I somehow managed to spend two solid hours there, drinking an incredible fresh mango latte and working remotely.
Two hours. One drink became another.
And honestly, those are the travel moments I remember.
This is where I preferred Hoi An: away from the lanterns, where the town gradually becomes countryside.
And eat cao lau before you leave.
Hue | History, Atmosphere and One Very Strange Place
Hue deserves at least two nights.
It's a very different experience from Hoi An.
Where Hoi An is colourful and outward-facing, Hue feels more contemplative. The city's history is inseparable from the Nguyen dynasty, and the imperial monuments give the city a completely different architectural character.
Start with the Imperial City and give yourself several hours.
Then visit Thien Mu Pagoda, overlooking the Perfume River.
If you have time, take a boat along the river. The pace is completely different from Hanoi.
The royal tombs
With a second day, visit one or two of the Nguyen emperors' tombs.
Tu Duc is romantic and garden-like, while Minh Mang feels more formal and monumental.
If you're interested in architecture and photography, don't underestimate Hue. The relationship between buildings, gardens, water, mountains and ceremonial spaces makes it one of the most visually interesting stops on this route.
And Then There Is Ho Thuy Tien
This one is personal.
I have a thing for abandoned places. If you don't, skip this section.
But if you do, go to Ho Thuy Tien.
It's an abandoned water park outside Hue, with its enormous dragon structure sitting in the middle of what has become a wonderfully eerie landscape.
Don't believe everything you read online about it being some incredibly secret, impossible-to-find location.
It isn't.
You'll need a taxi, but you won't be the only person there. There may be a handful of other visitors around, not a crowd, but definitely not an undiscovered secret either.
And I didn't care. I loved it.
There's something genuinely unsettling about walking around a place that was clearly designed to be full of people and is now largely silent and overgrown.
If abandoned architecture makes you stop and look twice, put this on your Hue list.
For me, it was absolutely worth the detour.
Getting Around Vietnam | The Apps I Actually Used
We mainly travelled by train and taxi, and I would happily do it that way again.
Grab: download it before you go
For taxis, Grab is essential.
Download Grab before your trip. We used it extensively and found it much easier than negotiating with taxis on the street.
You can see the price before booking, which removes a lot of unnecessary stress.
12Go
For trains and longer journeys, we used 12Go.
It's particularly useful when you're trying to understand the different train operators and cabin options.
Airalo
For the SIM, I used Airalo.
I would honestly set this up before leaving home. Having data from the moment you land makes everything easier, especially when you're ordering a Grab, checking Google Maps or messaging your hotel.
Google Maps
Download the areas you'll be visiting for offline use before you leave.
You'll thank yourself when you're somewhere rural and your connection decides to disappear.
Paying in Vietnam
We mainly paid by card whenever possible.
I use Revolut when travelling and it worked very well for us in Vietnam.
That said, I would still carry some Vietnamese dong for smaller cafés, local food stalls, markets and places where card payments aren't available.
Don't rely entirely on your card.
But you also don't need to travel around carrying a suitcase full of cash.
What I Would Change About Our Trip
If you're planning something similar, here's my edited version after actually doing it.
12–14 nights
3 nights → Hanoi
Enough time for the city without becoming exhausted by it.
1 night → Lan Ha Bay
An overnight cruise, but I wouldn't spend a fortune on luxury.
3 nights → Ninh Binh
The place where I'd slow down.
2 nights → Hue
Enough for the Imperial City, pagodas, royal tombs and Ho Thuy Tien.
3 nights → Hoi An
But spend at least one day outside the Ancient Town.
2–3 nights → Ho Chi Minh City
The major addition I'd make to our trip.
And then fly home from Ho Chi Minh City rather than returning north.
That way, the journey moves in one direction instead of doubling back.
A Few Things I Learned Along the Way
Don't underestimate distances
Vietnam looks deceptively compact on a map.
It isn't.
Moving between destinations takes time, and road journeys can be slower than you expect. Build your itinerary around how you want to feel, not around how many places you can technically fit in.
Pay for comfort where it matters. I'm all for travelling well without spending unnecessarily.
But there are a few places where I'd spend the extra money: a good hotel in Ninh Binh, a private overnight train cabin, and a comfortable room in Hoi An.
You don't need five-star everything. You need comfort where it changes the experience.
Don't make every day a sightseeing day. This is probably the biggest lesson I took home.
Some of my favourite memories from Vietnam aren't the famous sights. They're sitting somewhere with a coffee. Cycling through Ninh Binh. Looking out from a train window. Watching that woman working in the fields.
Spending two hours drinking a mango latte with Fede while pretending we were just "working remotely".
Vietnam can be overwhelming.
You don't have to match its pace.
And Would I Go Back?
This is where I have to be honest.
I wouldn't regret travelling anywhere I've never been. Every destination gives you something, even when it doesn't become your place.
Vietnam didn't quite steal my heart in the way Japan and China did.
And I think that's okay.
Perhaps we arrived with expectations shaped by those previous trips. Perhaps our route wasn't quite right. Perhaps Vietnam simply isn't one of those countries that speaks to everyone in the same way.
But there are places I would happily return to.
Ninh Binh is one of them.
I'd return to sit among those mountains and rice fields without a camera agenda, without a list of things to see, and with nowhere I needed to be next.
And maybe that's the real reason I recommend Vietnam.
Not because I think you should see everything.
But because somewhere between the chaos, the colour, the history and the extraordinary landscapes, there are moments when the country becomes unexpectedly quiet.
Those are the moments I'd go looking for.
Vietnam Travel Essentials
A few things I would download or organise before boarding the plane:
- Flights: London → Hanoi / Hanoi → London for our trip; next time, I'd fly home from Ho Chi Minh City.
- Trains: 12Go - particularly useful for booking sleeper trains.
- Taxis: Grab - download before you arrive.
- eSIM: Airalo - I used this throughout the trip.
- Maps: Google Maps, with offline areas downloaded.
- Hotels: Booking.com - where we booked our accommodation.
- Cards: Revolut - my go-to travel card.
- Cash: Keep some Vietnamese dong for smaller businesses and local places.